Big Waves. It's decided. In the next life, I shall come back as a surfer. Just watched part of the surf documentary Riding Giants. The third act focuses on big wave legend and former model Laird Hamilton (now married to Gabie Reece, the model-volleyball player). For guys like Hamilton, surfing is not a sport (he refuses to enter organized competitions) but a way of life, a religion. Their god is the monster wave. And the only way to commune with this god is to ride the wave. Captivating, inspiring. Here is footage of Hamilton on a famous day in 2000 riding killer waves at Teaupoo in Tahiti. More Hamilton surfing footage is available at his web site. 9-16-2006. Add CommentPermalink
Big Waves. It's decided. In the next life, I shall come back as a surfer. Just watched part of the surf documentary